1901 - 1914

This refers to the period when Edward VII reigned and represents a backlash towards the heavy jewellery of the Victorian era making lighter, more elegant jewellery. Designs were inspired by French rococo decoration from the end of the 18th Century and swags, bows and hearts were combined with natural symbols such as sprays of flowers and flowerheads culminating in a range of beautifully feminine jewellery referred to as the 'Garland Style'.

Platinum was introduced, a much harder metal than gold and silver, meaning that new ways of working with stones could be explored. Platinum allowed the jeweller to set stones in much smaller claws or use the millegrain setting (minute beaded lines around the stone), which meant the gemstones were the focal point of the piece.

There were also advances in diamond cutting in the early 20th Century, which meant that the diamonds could show more life and sparkle in the designs. As well as the use of diamonds, coloured gemstones began to be used more extensively too as they became more readily available. Garland jewellery particularly showed off the pearl as they were highly regarded due to their rarity; a time before cultured pearls had been introduced.

In terms of style, the negligee pendant was highly popular at this time, where two gems are connected by a platinum or gold rod and worn suspended from a simple chain.

Stones used: Diamonds, Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, pearls, aquamarines.